Since I've been in Salt Lake, I've always wanted to visit Great Basin National Park. The Park is just inside the NV border (with UT of course) - more specifically, just a few miles west of Baker NV. It's been 3 years, but I'm on my way today!
The trip is around 234 miles (~4 hours) so to get so I can get at least 1 hike in before the afternoon storms come (and they are in the forecast for Fri/Sat/Sun), I leave around 6:15am.
I head south on I-15, exit at one of the Nephi exits and head southwest. I'm wondering if there will be other cars/trucks on trip to NV as it's pretty barren country but I'm pleasantly surprise (and happy) to see other vehicles - mostly semis. Not a lot of vehicles but at least enough that if something happens, there's help available.
The landscape is "ranch-land" - sagebrush flats/pinyon pines/junipers. After Delphi, the sparse traffic becomes even less. I travel through a wonderful gorge to a Pass and as I head downhill from the Pass, a very changed landscape awaits - miles of desert nothing-ness with a straight highway cutting through it.
Soon, the peaks of the Great Basin National Park are in the distance and closing fast.
I cross the NV border; I don't remember a "Welcome to Nevada" sign just the Border Inn (a motel/restaurant/gas station) sitting alone along the highway. It's a great sign as the Park is only 10 miles away!!
The Visitor's Center is my first stopping point. It sits outside the Park in the small town of Baker.
The Park is a stark contrast to the surrounding landscape -- it's not just peaks, but there's trees and green. It actually looks so out of place in the local environment; I can't wait.
I do have to say, the Park is very remote. There is no Park Lodge, the town of Baker has a single gas station (credit card only), a couple of restaurants and 2 motels with, if lucky, a total of 20 rooms. (The nearest hotels are ~65 miles away in Ely.) There are primitive campgrounds in the park (first-come first-serve) and a few developed campgrounds outside the park . The good thing about the remoteness is that it keeps the large crowds down. (And the Park service does not charge a fee to enter.)
I grab my Park maps at the Visitor's Center and head down a road to enter the Park.
There are 3 choices upon entering 1) head to Baker Creek (maybe if I had more time) 2) tour Lehman Caves (I have my reservation for Sunday morning) or 3) head up the Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive and do some of the trails at the higher elevations.
The Wheeler Peak Drive is my plan. The drive is 12 miles of curvy roads (with drop-offs) that starts at Lehman Creek and ends 3,400 ft higher at the Wheeler Peak campground/parking area (9800 ft). Actually, the Summit Parking area comes before Wheeler Peak and is, at 10,160ft, is the highest point of the road. The road descends from the Summit Parking to the Wheeler Peak area.
It's still a beautiful sunny morning when I start up the road. As I drive up I pass thru several different habitats as I rise in elevation - pinyon/juniper woodlands to aspen forests to mountain mahogany & manzanita areas, to Engleman Spruce/Douglas Fir forests and ending in the subalpine forests (limber pine, spruce, and aspen). Beautiful drive!
And if that wasn't enough, the views down to the valley below are incredible!! Unfortunately, there aren't many pull-offs for Photo Stops. But I do find a couple.
Also, the road is line with many blooming flowers (mostly yellow and/or purple flowers and there many butterflies flitting around/nectaring on those flowers! Unfortunately, there are not many pull-offs. :(
I do get a drive-by of a Small Wood Nymph (lots of them flying between 7000-8000ft).
I do find one small pull-off and walk the road for just a bit finding Juba Skippers, more Wood Nymphs, and a Blue Copper.
There are 2 official pull-offs. I arrive at the first (Mather Overlook) which sits just over 9000ft. There are lots of flowers blooming along the parking area but no butterflies. :(
At the viewpoint, I get my first real look at Wheeler Peak.
I continue up to the Wheeler Peak Overlook (just shy of 10,000 ft). Lots of purple flowers and butterflies getting there but just before the Overlook, the flowers stop. I stop at the viewpoint.
And then walk the road for bit. Along the way, I'm still seeing Juba Skippers, Blue Copper, West Coast Lady and this cute moth.
Onward and upward I go the Summit Parking lot. This is the main parking for the Wheeler Peak trail (which I planning on doing Sat). I thought I'd start the Alpine Lakes Loop from here but after looking at the map, I'm going to start from the Wheeler Peak lot. The stop pays off as I do see a Western Tiger Swallowtail!
The road descends into the Wheeler Peak lot. Same story with flowers & butterflies along the way. Would walk the road from the parking lot but it's 11:30am, the clouds over the peaks are starting to build; I need to get moving.
The Alpine Lakes Loop is 2.7 miles (600ft elevation) with a high point of 10,400 ft. It will pass two alpine lakes - Stella Lake and Teresa Lake. (Fish do not live in either lake as both freeze pretty solid over winter.)
The trail starts in the woods where there's a beautiful stream with vibrant green vegetation.
The trail continues thru woods and then open areas. Some of the open areas have flowers and butterflies so I go searching. Mostly Frits (I think Zerene (maybe Great Basin))
and West Coast Ladies.
I also see Common Checkered Skippers, Hoary Commas,
Milbert's Tortoiseshells, and Western Whites. (No skippers.)
Several Orange Sulphers flying but none stopping.
I'm amazed at the number of butterflies but there are so many more Hummingbird Moths (White-line Sphinx moths) along this trail - I've never seen so many!! It's incredible!
The views are also incredible as I wind my way to the lake which sit below the Great Basin peaks.
I get the surprise of my life when I round one corner and there in the open area are 9 turkeys just off the trail!
They are very calm as I watch. In fact, they cross the trail several feet in front of me.
A father and two small boys who were coming from the lake told me to look for a Mom with at least one chick. Never saw the Mom or the chicks -- I'm pretty happy with the 9 turkeys.
Just so many flowers and flitting insects!
I finally reach Stella Lake -- perfect!
There are many people in the shade along the east side of the lake so I head to the other side and find a shady spot to have lunch.
As I eat, I watch Whites, Milbert's Tortoiseshells
and a Shasta Blues flying along the water's edge.
Time to get going as the storm clouds keep rolling in. I walk back to the eastern shoreline (and the trail), I add a Field Crescent to my butterfly list for the day.
I take on last parting shot from the other end of the lake before continuing on to Teresa Lake.
At this point the sun disappears behind the clouds.
Well the high point of this trail was Stella Lake as the trail to Teresa Lake is all downhill. The terrain is also more rugged (rockier) - no open meadows.
Before reaching Teresa Lake, there's a small stream that feeds the lake. Wonderful green vegetation and pink Parry's Primrose blooming along the shores.
The creek feeds into Teresa Lake.
The water levels are much lower that Stella Lake.
And there are few butterflies flying along the shores even though the sun is gone.
I make a final stop on the far side of the lake.
Before continuing down to complete the loop.
I soon come to an intersection with the Bristlecone Trail..(This trail heads to a Bristlecone grove and even further to the remains of a glacier.) Since the Bristlecone Forest is only 0.7 miles away, I decide to head over.
The trail continues thru the woods - still very rugged country.
But before I make it to the Grove, it starts to rain. I can't be that far away but I decide to head back. Oh well -- if I had only not chased so many butterflies!
Rain pretty good the whole way down - but thankfully no thunder.
Well that pretty much ends my day.
I head back down the Scenic Drive (more turkeys crossing the road) and then I start heading back to Baker.
I make a stop at an old Ranch exhibit. Close by there an old rusty truck (one of many pieces are art along the side of the road.
Well that's my day and a wonderful day it was!
To me, Great Basin is the hidden gem of National Parks.
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